I love New York…
Sitting in the youth hostel in Reykjavik, and two days of New York to catch up on. Finally, on Saturday morning, the sun came out, and stayed out for the rest of the weekend. Having had two fairly miserable days of rain and greyness, New York suddenly took on a whole different character, and my opinion of the place completely changed. I went for a wander in Central Park. Like much of New York, because I've seen it so much on film and TV, it's odd to remember that I'd never actually been there before, however familiar the views are. Just wandering in the sun was incredibly peaceful, and the contrast between the enormous buildings and the trees was breath-taking.
Going to Ground Zero is an odd addition to the New York tourist trail, and I was honestly very wary of going to see it. In the end I found the experience hugely moving. There's an exhibition of photographs overlooking the big hole in the ground where the twin towers used to be, and they are just ordinary shots taken by ordinary people. One particularly struck me - it's a photo of a tourist's photos of the World Trade Center, taken over their shoulder in the back of a taxi. Obviously and tragically there was an enormous loss of human life on 9/11, but I found the absence of the buildings themselves strangely haunting. There's a massive and startling anomaly just across the road from the big hole outside Century 21, where a walking tour panel tells you all about the twin towers, and how 50,000 people a day come to work, and how as a visitor you can go to the top to see the best view of Manhattan... I don't know whether they meant to leave it there, or if someone just forgot to take it down.
I ended Saturday in true tourist style by taking the Staten Island Ferry. Literally there and back. I'm sure Staten Island is lovely, but I got as far as getting of the boat, walking round the building and getting back on again. The boat ride out was funny - I was among a whole load of tourists hanging over the side of the boat for a shot of the Statue of Liberty, only to find it completely obscured by the great big cruise liner that pulled up alongside us. Still, I got it on the way back. It sounds odd, because you can see on every map that Manhattan's surrounded by water, but it doesn't really feel like it until you are off it. Anyway, I walked back via Macy's, thought about buying jeans but couldn't find anything I really liked, paid homage at the Project Runway window, and headed back to the hotel with very sore feet!
As a New York day, Sunday was just about perfect. Went for brunch with Phil, Jonny, Ross and Carolyn on West End and 72nd Street, then jumped on the subway down to the Empire State Building. Amazingly, there were almost no queues. And it was just amazing. I was surprised at how incredibly quiet and peaceful it was at the top, with almost no wind at all. And I have to say honestly, that seeing the place from above completely changed my perspective on New York. I spent most of my first two days missing San Francisco really badly, and I wish now I'd gone straight to the top of the Empire State Building the moment I arrived in New York. The view from the top really made me fall in love with the city.
Afterwards, I met up with Jonny and Ross in Union Square (they'd been cycling in Central Park) and we went with Charlie, Christine and Lauren for frozen margueritas, fries and football. A perfect way to end being in the New York. They've promised to come to London soon, so I hope I'll see them all again.
And so, Reykjavik... At the airport this morning, standing in the queue to get local currency, I found myself thinking that I vaguely recognised the woman standing next to me. Just as she walked off I realised it was Bjork. Otherwise I would have asked her what all that petroleum jelly and whaling stuff was about...