Andy Jaeger big thinking for a small world

The Castro, Embarcadero and Nob Hill

Two days to catch up on, and San Francisco turns out to be diverse and interesting than I could have imagined. It's more like a collection of villages, with the character of the place changing almost block by block.

I spent Saturday afternoon hanging around the Castro. I've never seen so many rainbow flags in my whole life! I decided against the pub crawl option, because I thought I'd fall over if I tried (well, I'm useless at drinking and I was still jetlagged), so I decided to go for a pampering instead. A new haircut, a shoulder massage and a manicure later and I was in a world of relaxation! One of the amazing things about the Castro (quite apart from the fact that straight couples holding hands in the street stand out like a sore thumb in the gayest part of San Francisco) is the beautiful architecture. Away from Castro Street, there are beautiful old houses everywhere. It's an incredibly comfortable place to be, and I'll be back again later this week.

Saturday night was peculiar! Tara recommended that I went to Deco, a bar across the road from the hotel, and it turned out to be piano night with Houston Allred, a 60-something pianist and singer. It was a bizarre mixture of piano karaoke (as people from the audience got up to sing... including me!), comedy spoofs of Somewhere Over The Rainbow and a vast number of showtunes. I actually really enjoyed it, but I'm not sure I'd go again (if that makes any sense). I met some British guys who live in San Francisco, and a really nice guy called Lynden, who was one of Houston's "visiting artistes" (as he likes to call people who get up to sing).

Today started really slowly. I wandered down to the Muni and hopped on a train to the Embarcadero. Being right by the water is so different from the Castro (which is a long way inland), with sun, palm trees and beautiful views. I had lunch at the Ferry Building, walked someway along the Embarcadero, past all the piers, and jumped on a streetcar on the F line to take me to Fisherman's Wharf. The F line is made up of historic trams from all over the world, and every one seems to be different - the one I was on was Italian, with the original signs and beautifully cared-for wood. Fisherman's Wharf is just bizarre. It's probably the most touristy part of San Francisco, and it shows. Souvenir shops, overpriced restaurants, huge crowds milling around... but fantastic views of Alcatraz.

And then, finally, I got to Nob Hill. Hill is an understatement. On the map, SF looks deceptively flat. In reality, I have never seen such steep streets in my entire life. I walked a bit from Fisherman's Wharf, and then quickly realised the hills were going to defeat me, so I found a bus and a cable car instead. At what feels like the top of Nob Hill is Grace Cathedral. I can't remember when I first heard of Grace Cathedral, but it was one of the reasons I wanted to come to SF. I arrived just after the evening service had started, and took a quick look inside at the amazing stained glass, and then walked the outdoor labyrinth. It based on the labyrinth at Chartres Cathedral in France, and it's a huge circle with a winding path to the centre. Walking it in and back is the most amazingly calming and yet frustrating experience. Although it has only one path, so you know you'll reach the centre eventually, it takes so many twists and turns that it is easy to feel lost. They say the labyrinth is a reflection of the journey through life, and it makes a lot of sense. When you feel furthest from where you should be, you're actually closer that you realise. That's my not terribly deep thought for the day!

Back at the hotel now, and there's a party going on downstairs around the pool. Honestly though, I'm knackered - I'll go down for the barbeque in a bit.